Madrid

Madrid in January - at first I did not even want to go. After we returned from this exhausting trip, I was glad I went. 

Aleppo Pine in Parque de el Retiro

When Felipe II chose Madrid as his capital in 1561, it was a small Castilian town with a population of barely 20,000. Then the building madness began. During the Habsburg and three Bourbon Dynasties, the place was plastered with palaces in the severe, un-ornamented architectural style (desornamentado), which gave way to Baroque, Neo-Classical, and then Art Deco. The trend continues and apart from the very unattractive apartment blocks on the outskirts, exciting new architecture is popping up. 

Mosaic mural at Argüelles Metro stop

So this is what you get here: splendid buildings by the ton, art by the lorry load, and a great public transport system. Treat yourself to one of the Tourist Transport Season Tickets. Not only can you use it to get from the airport into town quickly and easily, you also have access to the full bus and Metro systems.

Juventud/Youth, Marble - 1935, by Josep Clarà at the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía
Sultry, healthy, innocent and infuriating - a perfect depiction of that age.

Visiting at least one of the many art galleries is a must. Of course we went and explored the

• Museo Nacional del Prado - loads of Old Masters: paintings of pale and sickly looking people; depressing most of it,  I would say; engaging, stimulating and thought provoking would be the educated critic's view. The permanent exhibition of this museum is free of charge in the evenings. 

Prado - just before 5PM, when free entry starts

• Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía - lovely place, modern mix of all sorts of media, sculpture, paintings, film. You can spend all day in that gallery, entry is free of charge in the evenings and on the weekend. 
• For something very different try the Museo Tiflológico run by the ONCE Organisation [for the blind]. Everything is to be touched, and that aspect really offers a new dimension. Free entry.
• CaixaForum is a beautiful building with a vertical garden and engaging exhibitions. I took a look at The Cinema Effect - Illusion, Reality and the Moving Image - Realisms. Weird and wonderful. Free entry.

Sintiendo el Viento, Bronze - 1997, by Ana Hernando at Museo Tiflológico

CaixaForum and jardín vertical

There is more to Madrid than just museums and palaces. (For a place which is completely o.t.t. visit the Museo Cerralbo - it is stuffed full with treasure and a lit by outrageous Murano chandeliers.)

As I am a bit partial to trees, I needed to spend time in some "natural" areas. For starters, and close by is the huge (and free of charge) Parque de el Retiro.

Peer out to See by Jessica Stockholder, Palacio de Cristal, Parque de el Retiro

Helleborus orientalis, Real Jardín Botánico

Next to that park are the Botanic Gardens. It must be beautiful here in Spring. The beds were chock-a-block with bulbs and herbaceous plants. In January, only the bare trees remain, and some Helleborus. I learned that the Gingko biloba tree has the most disgusting smelling seed pods; it does - just as if someone had been sick.

For a different view of Madrid, take the Teleférico for an 11 min ride from the Parque del Oeste, crossing the valley with the railway tracks and Río Manzanares and ending up on top of Casa de Campo. Lolipop trees (Aleppo Pines) all around you!

Teleférico on Casa de Campo

Our turning point on Casa de Campo, as it began to rain.

And while you are in the area, venture south in the Parque del Oeste until you come across the original Templo de Debod. Built in the 2nd century BC it was given to Spain by the Egyptian government in 1968, as recognition for their assistance in moving monuments out of harms way of the Aswan Dam's water. Sunset was particularly recommended for this venue, and I think that is spot on.

Templo de Debod

Of all the other grand places and sites Madrid has to offer, I loved Atocha train station. Inside the magnificent glass and wrought-iron structure is a tropical palm garden - lush and green, with birds flying about the vegetation. At night the hall is illuminated in white light, and looks an absolute gem from the outside as well.

Well worth the time and entry fee was the tour of Real Fábrica de Tapices, a rug and silk wall tapestry manufacturer. As all the production steps are executed by hand without any machines, on rather large vertical looms, there was a busy silence in the factory. It was founded in 1721 and still uses the same techniques as they did almost 300 years ago. Their new fine carpets now adorn the Hotel Ritz.

While walking around the many plazas and fountains of this city, I noticed this workman dealing with graffiti tags. They used a strong chemical to soak the paint, which is then pressure washed off the marble. After half an hour the graffito below Don Quixote and Sancho Panza had gone completely. Don Qixote's horse seemed to also have suffered from the spray can and was hosed down properly.

Plaza de España

Madrid looked like a place of opposites to me. On the one hand the rich architecture, the extravagant hotels, the lush fountains and water features, the smart looking people, the comfortable public transport system. On the other hand, the graffiti and the leagues of buskers and beggars. No Metro ride without a serenading busker, no major street intersection without a one-legged beggar covering each corner of the crossing. If you get yourself a sandwich, you have to negotiate the elderly woman sitting outside the front door pleading for your small change. They must have a Beggars' Guild in that town.

It may well be that there are pleasant and interesting markets in the capital of Spain. I did not see any. We tried El Rastro, a Sunday flea market (avoid at all cost - unless you require T-shirts proclaiming that You ♥ Madrid) and the 19th century iron and glass Mercado de San Miguel (only visit if you desire to consume some oysters and other fishy delicacies at tourist rates).

Which brings me to a major aspect of any travel: the food you experience. We did well, I reckon. We sampled the melt-in-the mouth Viennese Pastries at Viena Capellanes, a coffee and cake chain; I enjoyed  uncomplicated vegetarian meals at Artemisa Restaurante Integral, and then I took tea at the Palace Hotel under the cúpula.

Hotel Palace, La Rotunda

Somehow we were not amazed by the Spanish foods we tasted, with the possible exception of these open sandwiches, with plenty worm-like sea foods from El Capricho Extremeño.

Toast with fish and shrimps, and octopus.

We stayed at the Hotel Gran Atlanta, close to the Real Madrid CF football stadium, Estadio Santiago Bernabéu. The price was certainly right at that accommodation, and we were lucky to have a room to the rear (not with a great view) and relatively few other guests staying. If the adjacent rooms are occupied, you hear everything through the paper thin walls. That may not be so relaxing when the football fans hit the place after a match.

If you are a culture vulture you have to visit Madrid - and spend at least a week there. There is so much more to see: the Royal Palace (Palacio Real), even more galleries and museums, the many huge gates and arches, the sparkling fountains, grand squares, modern Madrid, the bullfights, the dancing ... as well as the neighbouring attractions: Toledo, Segovia, El Escorial, and countless monasteries and other palaces. Our 50 hours in the town were filled at every moment with new experiences. In summer it must be hot in the urban jungle - which is why the evening only starts fairly late. Don't expect to dine before 21:00.

I consulted a number of travel guides but found this one is a decent all rounder, which fits into my backpack: