Visiting at least one of the many art galleries is a must. Of course we went and explored the
- Museo Nacional del Prado - loads of Old Masters: paintings of pale and sickly looking people; depressing most of it, I would say; engaging, stimulating and thought provoking would be the educated critic's view. The permanent exhibition of this museum is free of charge in the evenings.
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| Prado - just before 5PM, when free entry starts |
There is more to Madrid than just museums and palaces. (For a place which is completely o.t.t. visit the
Museo Cerralbo - it is stuffed full with treasure and a lit by outrageous
Murano chandeliers.)
As I am a bit partial to trees, I needed to spend time in some "natural" areas. For starters, and close by is the huge (and free of charge)
Parque de el Retiro.
Next to that park are the
Botanic Gardens. It must be beautiful here in Spring. The beds were chock-a-block with bulbs and herbaceous plants. In January, only the bare trees remain, and some Helleborus. I learned that the
Gingko biloba tree has the most disgusting smelling seed pods; it does - just as if someone had been sick.
For a different view of Madrid, take the
Teleférico for an 11 min ride from the Parque del Oeste, crossing the valley with the railway tracks and Río Manzanares and ending up on top of
Casa de Campo. Lolipop trees (Aleppo Pines) all around you!
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| Our turning point on Casa de Campo, as it began to rain. |
And while you are in the area, venture south in the Parque del Oeste until you come across the original
Templo de Debod. Built in the 2nd century BC it was given to Spain by the Egyptian government in 1968, as recognition for their assistance in moving monuments out of harms way of the Aswan Dam's water. Sunset was particularly recommended for this venue, and I think that is spot on.
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| Templo de Debod |
Of all the other grand places and sites Madrid has to offer, I loved
Atocha train station. Inside the magnificent glass and wrought-iron structure is a tropical palm garden - lush and green, with birds flying about the vegetation. At night the hall is illuminated in white light, and looks an absolute gem from the outside as well.
Well worth the time and entry fee was the tour of
Real Fábrica de Tapices, a rug and silk wall tapestry manufacturer. As all the production steps are executed by hand without any machines, on rather large vertical looms, there was a busy silence in the
factory. It was founded in 1721 and still uses the same techniques as they did almost 300 years ago. Their new fine carpets now adorn the Hotel Ritz.
While walking around the many plazas and fountains of this city, I noticed this workman dealing with graffiti tags. They used a strong chemical to soak the paint, which is then pressure washed off the marble. After half an hour the graffito below
Don Quixote and Sancho Panza had gone completely. Don Qixote's horse seemed to also have suffered from the spray can and was hosed down properly.
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| Plaza de España |
Madrid looked like a place of opposites to me. On the one hand the rich architecture, the extravagant hotels, the lush fountains and water features, the smart looking people, the comfortable public transport system. On the other hand, the graffiti and the leagues of buskers and beggars. No Metro ride without a serenading busker, no major street intersection without a one-legged beggar covering each corner of the crossing. If you get yourself a sandwich, you have to negotiate the elderly woman sitting outside the front door pleading for your small change. They must have a
Beggars' Guild in that town.
It may well be that there are pleasant and interesting markets in the capital of Spain. I did not see any. We tried
El Rastro, a Sunday flea market (avoid at all cost - unless you require T-shirts proclaiming that
You ♥ Madrid) and the 19th century iron and glass
Mercado de San Miguel (only visit if you desire to consume some oysters and other fishy delicacies at tourist rates).
Which brings me to a major aspect of any travel: the food you experience. We did well, I reckon. We sampled the melt-in-the mouth Viennese Pastries at
Viena Capellanes, a coffee and cake chain; I enjoyed uncomplicated vegetarian meals at
Artemisa Restaurante Integral, and then I took tea at the
Palace Hotel under the
cúpula.
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| Hotel Palace, La Rotunda |
Somehow we were not amazed by the Spanish foods we tasted, with the possible exception of these open sandwiches, with plenty worm-like sea foods from
El Capricho Extremeño.
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| Toast with fish and shrimps, and octopus. |
We stayed at the
Hotel Gran Atlanta, close to the Real Madrid CF football stadium,
Estadio Santiago Bernabéu. The price was certainly right at that accommodation, and we were lucky to have a room to the rear (not with a great view) and relatively few other guests staying. If the adjacent rooms are occupied, you hear everything through the paper thin walls. That may not be so relaxing when the football fans hit the place after a match.
If you are a culture vulture you have to visit Madrid - and spend at least a week there. There is so much more to see: the Royal Palace (Palacio Real), even more galleries and museums, the many huge gates and arches, the sparkling fountains, grand squares, modern Madrid, the bullfights, the dancing ... as well as the neighbouring attractions: Toledo, Segovia, El Escorial, and countless monasteries and other palaces. Our 50 hours in the town were filled at every moment with new experiences. In summer it must be hot in the urban jungle - which is why the evening only starts fairly late. Don't expect to dine before 21:00.
I consulted a number of travel guides but found this one is a decent all rounder, which fits into my backpack:
